some more useful info for you.
Length: 45-50 cm (about 18-20 inches). Green. Clearly visible black collar; back of the neck pink. Innermost tail feathers bluish-green with yellow-white tips. Eyes gray encircled with red, beak deep red, legs grayish-brown. The females is very similar; however, she lacks the black neck ring. Very intelligent birds. Providing they have a good shelter (to prevent the danger of freezing toes), these birds can remain outdoors during the winter. Only when kept in a cage can a young bird be taught to speak.
Fertility
The female lays 2-4 eggs. These birds can be quite easily led to breeding as long as they are housed in a roomy aviary by themselves. The nest box should be about 45 x 40 x 60 cm; entrance diameter 11-12 cm. Incubation time is about 28 days; after 6-7 weeks the young leave the nest. Females often suffer egg binding.
Social Behavior
Prefers to be kept in pairs or colonies. Can be taught to talk if kept as pets and started young.
Diet
I've noticed that more and more breeders are recommending pellets as a dietary base rather than the mixed fruits, nuts and seeds of the past. Many birds will pluck out the pieces that they want, and discard the rest, which isn't healthy at all. Providing pellets as the base diet assures that your bird is getting a balanced diet with all the vitamins and nutrients that it needs. For birds that have difficulty converting to pellets, it may be possible to grind up it's regular diet of seeds, nuts, etc into a chunky batter that can be rolled into balls to encourage better nutritious intake and get your bird used to finding it's meals in a pellet like form.
I would still recommend fresh fruits, vegetables and nuts as items for hand feeding. Bonding with your bird, especially those with long life spans, is very essential to your bird's mental and physical health. Hand feeding healthy treats is a great way to help encourage bonding with a new bird, and keep the bond strong with your bird throughout it's lifetime.
Beneficial foods include dark green, leafy vegetables like kale, broccoli, dandelions, and chard, as well as carrots, sweet potatoes, and squash. Healthy table foods like cooked eggs, corn, beans, pasta, and rice can also be offered. Remove perishable foods after a few hours and at bedtime. Grit, gravel, and oyster shells should never be given. A seed-only diet will result in malnutrition. Eventually, a lovebird should become acclimated to a diet containing specially formulated pellets. An AVIAN vet can help with more information.
Cleaning
Tray liners should be replaced every day and the cage bottom, fittings and dishes regularly washed with hot water and soap. Once a month, disinfect the cage with diluted bleach and rinse thoroughly. Line the tray with black and white newspaper or paper towels. It is unsafe to use pine/cedar shavings, corn cob or walnut bedding.
Habitat
As a cautionary note, you should avoid cheap powder coating or any coating at all! I've heard of cases where parrots have chewed the powdercoating right off it's cage, leaving the iron exposed to corrosion which could kill the bird if ingested. Most people I've talked to have suggested avoided powder coating because it may actually encourage the bird to chew due to the texture.
Parrots and other hook billed birds have very powerful beaks. Even a parakeet can destroy perches and chew itself out of flimsy cages. You'll need to make sure that your cage is sturdy enough to resist chewing and keep your pet safe. Large doors will allow you to easily access the cage for cleaning and to play with your bird. Large doors are a MUST for big birds or they may decide they don't like moving through it, making it difficult for you to handle them.
A playground shelf on top of the cage is a great way to encourage your bird to come in and out of it's cage without resistance. During the day, if your house is safe for it, you could leave the door open so the bird can have free roam of the playground and still return to the cage if it wishes. I've seen some set-ups which did not come with the playground and had it added later with great success, and still other successful owners which attached a shelf to the wall over or around the cage to support toys and a play area. What ever you do, parrots and parrot-like birds will all need lots of toys and forms of entertainment to prevent them from getting bored and even aggressive.
Health
All parakeets and parrots should be examined by a qualified AVIAN vet at least once a year or ASAP if any bleeding, injuries, or other signs are noted. It can be hard to tell when a bird is ill, and by the time you notice a problem, the sickness is usually well-advanced. Delaying a visit with an AVIAN vet or using over-the-counter or human medicines may be fatal.
Warnings
All parrakeets and parrots have very sensitive respiratory systems and should not be exposed to cigarette smoke, aerosols, harsh cleaning products, or other toxic fumes.